Washing Hiking Gear: Boots, Packs, Hats, and Everything Else

If you hike in North Idaho — the Selkirk Crest, Schweitzer’s summer trails, the Pack River drainage, the upper Priest Lake area — your gear accumulates a serious amount of dirt, sweat, pine sap, and trail grime over a summer season. Washing it properly at the end of a trip (or the end of the season) keeps it performing correctly and extends its life by years.

The problem is that hiking gear is made from a wide variety of technical materials, and what works for cotton absolutely destroys waterproof membranes, pack frames, and boot adhesives. Here’s a breakdown by item.

Hiking Boots and Trail Shoes

Boots are the most abused item in your kit and often the most neglected when it comes to cleaning. Here’s the right approach:

• Remove insoles and laces. Wash laces separately (they can go in the machine in a mesh bag). Insoles can be hand-washed with mild soap and air dried.
• Knock off loose dirt first. Use a brush to remove caked mud before any water touches the boot.
• Hand wash the uppers with a soft brush, warm water, and a mild soap. For leather boots, use a leather-specific cleaner.
• Never machine wash boots with a waterproof membrane (Gore-Tex and similar) — the agitation and heat can delaminate the membrane and void your warranty.
• Air dry away from direct heat. Don’t use a dryer, direct sunlight, or a heater — all of these dry out and crack leather and can warp synthetic materials.
• Once dry, reapply a waterproofing treatment (Nikwax, Sno-Seal, or equivalent) to restore DWR performance.

Hiking Packs and Daypacks

Packs accumulate sweat on the back panel and straps, food residue in the main compartment, and grime everywhere else. Most packs do not belong in a washing machine — the frame stays, buckles get damaged, and the foam padding in straps can lose its shape.

• Empty completely — check every pocket, including the hip belt pockets
• Wipe down the interior with a damp cloth; for odor, use a diluted white vinegar solution
• Hand wash the exterior and straps with mild soap and a soft brush
• Rinse thoroughly and hang to air dry completely before storage — a damp pack in a closet grows mildew fast
• Exception: Soft-shell daypacks without frames or padding can often go in a front-loading machine on gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag

Hiking Hats and Caps

Hats absorb sweat and sunscreen all summer. Most hiking hats are washable, but the method depends on the brim construction.

• Soft-brim hats (Buff, Outdoor Research, etc.) can go in the machine on gentle, cold cycle in a mesh bag
• Structured caps with a cardboard brim: Hand wash only — machine washing destroys the brim shape
• Structured caps with a plastic brim: Top-rack dishwasher or hand wash — avoid the dryer
• Air dry all hats by placing them over a bowl or container to hold the shape

Merino Wool and Technical Base Layers

Merino wool is incredible trail fabric — odor-resistant, temperature-regulating, comfortable against skin. It also requires specific care.

• Cold water, gentle cycle, wool-specific detergent (or a tiny bit of mild soap)
• Never wring. Press excess water out gently.
• Lay flat to dry or hang — heat and agitation cause merino to shrink and felt irreversibly

Rain Jackets and Shell Layers

Technical shells with DWR (durable water repellent) coatings need to be washed correctly to maintain performance. Over time, body oils and detergent residue clog the DWR and cause the jacket to “wet out” — the fabric absorbs water instead of beading it off.

• Wash on gentle, warm cycle with a technical fabric cleaner like Nikwax Tech Wash — not regular detergent
• Tumble dry on low heat or iron on low through a cloth — heat actually reactivates the DWR coating
• If the jacket still wets out after washing and drying, apply a spray-on DWR treatment like Nikwax TX.Direct

Questions about a specific piece of gear? We’ve seen everything come through the door. Stop in at 477181 US-95 in Ponderay and we’ll point you in the right direction.

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